Restaurant of the Month: Bar Douro.
It’s not difficult to understand why Max Graham’s Bar Douro is often considered one of the finest Portuguese dining establishments in London.
Discreetly situated in Finsbury Square, away from the frenetic energy of Broadgate Circus, Bar Douro may be modest in size but is exquisitely designed. The intimate barstool seating arrangement encircling an open kitchen with elegantly curved marble counters provides a genuinely immersive dining experience.
We approached the striking counter and started our evening with a cocktail from the extensive and well-curated list. The White Port Tonic, enhanced with hints of orange and mint, was particularly delightful. The menu is an invitation to a culinary adventure, divided into four main sections – ‘Petiscos/Snacks,’ ‘Horta/Garden,’ ‘Mar/Sea,’ and ‘Terra/Land.’ We began with the salt cod fritters, a quintessential element of Portuguese cuisine that lived up to expectations. Soon after, we savoured the octopus salad, a vibrant dish where fresh octopus mingles with red onion, peppers, and coriander, all enveloped in a delectable vinaigrette.
From the ‘Land’ section, the humble potato takes on a starring role as garlic-infused wonder, buttery soft inside with a slight crispiness on the exterior, all drizzled with shimmering olive oil. The grilled cabbage with soubise is another noteworthy dish, perfectly charred and so tender that a knife effortlessly glides through the tender leaves. The wild mushroom rice, reminiscent of risotto, features grains of rice luxuriating in a rich, velvety stock, garnished with watercress, creating a profoundly satisfying dish.
Next, we turned our attention to the Garlic Prawns from the ‘Sea’ section of the menu, a house favourite, and it’s clear why: made with fresh tiger prawns, cloaked in a sauce of chilli, butter, garlic, olive oil, and lemon juice, this dish is so superb that we found ourselves mopping up every last drop with bread and those delicious potatoes. (Thankfully, we had the foresight to order them.) From the ‘Land’ section, we selected the Grilled Flat Iron Steak. The meat was tender, perfectly pink, and tasted rich and luxurious, especially when paired with the sumptuous, wine-infused bone marrow sauce.
To conclude the meal, a glass of port seemed an appropriate choice to accompany the desserts. The traditional egg yolk pudding was a wobbly delight, somewhat akin to crème brûlée, and it paired excellently with a glass of Horacio Simoes Moscatel de Setubal. For a more indulgent finale, the sticky fig cake accompanied by milk ice cream rounded off a thoroughly enjoyable and decadent evening.
Reservations here: https://www.bardouro.co.uk/restaurants/city
